Steeped in Tradition: The Tea Culture of Shigaraki

The town of Shigaraki, now part of Koka City in Shiga Prefecture, has been a hub of pottery-making for almost 800 years. The natural properties of Shigaraki’s rich clay deposits typically yield warm reddish-brown hues and attractive textural variations after firing. But pottery isn’t the town’s only legacy: In the early ninth century, a Buddhist priest returned from China with tea seeds, which were planted in the Asamiya district. The area's climate and soil proved ideal for tea cultivation, giving rise to Asamiya tea, and over time the twin traditions of pottery and tea flourished side by side, shaping the region’s identity.

Yamamotoen: A Family Affair

My first visit was to Yamamotoen, a tea producer and wholesale business founded in 1870 with a five-generation legacy. The company is headed by Yasushi Yamamoto and his wife, Hiromi, who have maintained a deep-rooted connection to the land. They also own With Tea, a café they established some 40 years ago to promote Asamiya tea, which serves as a hub for conversation and cultural exchange in Shigaraki.

I sat down with Yasushi Yamamoto to hear his story over fragrant cups of tea and slices of luscious roll cake. “Although Asamiya tea was well-known within the tea industry, it had low recognition among general consumers," he said. "So, we started offering sweets made with our tea, focusing on treats that pair well with tea."

Each of Yamamoto’s family members contributes their time and talents to the business. “My wife is in charge of the sweets for our café. Our elder son is responsible for the premium tea department, our younger son oversees the café and our daughter handles the accounting.”

Yamamotoen consistently earns top honors at national competitions. And while it is clear that family is at the heart of the operations, they also rely on the expertise of their team, including three nationally-certified tea appraisal specialists and two certified Japanese tea advisors.

Cultivating New Markets

Around 80 percent of Yamamotoen’s production consists of sencha—a type of green tea made from leaves that are steamed, rolled and dried, then infused in hot water. However, the recent popularity of matcha has led to increasing production of that tea, which features tea leaves ground into a fine powder. Matcha powder is mixed directly with water to make the tea, which is traditionally served at the tea ceremony. The international matcha boom has been fueled by the interest in wellness and the photogenic appeal of the vibrant green matcha drinks and desserts—a staple on social media feeds.

Yamamotoen is also expanding its pesticide-free tea cultivation to meet the rising demand from overseas. Currently, exports make up less than 10 percent of total production, but with Japan’s declining population and the growing global interest in Japanese tea, this ratio is expected to grow.

Japan’s tea industry is facing various challenges, including a lack of successors, declining consumption and falling prices. “We’re working to solve these issues by improving production and distribution systems, promoting smart agriculture and responding to expanding overseas markets,” said Yamamoto. He expects to see the use of robotics and AI technology also playing an important part in improving efficiency.

The company is committed to preserving and promoting Shigaraki tea culture, while nurturing the next generation of tea lovers. They operate educational programs for elementary and junior high school students and organize tea-picking experiences for both Japanese and international visitors.

Shoryuen: Blending Past and Future

I also met with Akihiko Hattori, who represents the younger generation of tea producers. Hattori is at the helm of Shoryuen, a position that he says must balance a deep respect for tradition with a flair for innovation. Since taking over the family farm in 2013 following his father’s sudden passing, Hattori has dedicated himself to mastering the art of tea cultivation.

The learning curve was steep at first for this young tea farmer, who runs Shoryuen virtually single-handedly. “In order to continue the legacy of Asamiya I sought advice from the Shiga Tea Industry Research Institute and fertilizer suppliers, while traveling to study tea production in various regions—a process that continues today,” he said.

Hattori took me on a tour of his fields, which stretch across a steep hillside, as he filled me in on his family's tea history. During Japan’s rapid economic growth in the Showa era (1926 to 1989), like many tea growers, the Hattori family gradually converted much of their land to Yabukita, a variety of tea leaf prized for its consistent flavor and quality. However, Shoryuen also continued to cultivate zairai tea plants—indigenous Japanese varieties that predate the modernization of tea farming.

Hattori showed me some of his zairai plants. He pointed out the differences in the leaves, which give rise to natural variations in flavor and color when the tea is harvested. While this lack of uniformity can make zairai less desirable than other blends from a production point of view, the plants are quite resistant to pests, and interest in zairai tea has been rising in recent years.

Exploring Fresh Fields

Hattori cultivates both conventional and organic tea fields at Shoryuen. “The organic tea fields are certified and use only natural organic fertilizers, with no pesticides or herbicides,” he said. “Even in the conventional fields, I use low-pesticide farming and prioritize organic fertilizers to reduce environmental impact. I want to preserve the benefits of both cultivation methods while expanding the range of teas.”

Unlike many local tea farmers who sell only to wholesalers, he takes a hands-on approach—selling online, attending events and engaging customers through social media. His wife’s professional experience has played a significant role in this success.

“My wife handles marketing, including brochure design, event displays and promotional materials," Hattori said. "I’m also showcasing the broader appeal of this region through collaboration with local artisans—incorporating each other’s products into events and conducting promotional activities."

Tea Experiences in Shigaraki

Both Yamamotoen and Shoryuen offer guided tours of the tea fields, areas typically reserved for staff. Visitors can also try their hand at rolling tea leaves and enjoy a freshly brewed cup served in Shigaraki ware. Yamamotoen’s café, With Tea, sells a selection of delicious treats infused with locally-grown tea. And Shoryuen offers a workshop in the art of Japanese tea preparation, including a guided tasting experience of various teas. Both producers also offer online sales.

Links:
Yamamotoen
With Tea
Shoryuen (Japanese only)
Shigaraki tourism

Access:
Reach Shigaraki in under two hours from Osaka Station or around four from Tokyo Station. It takes an hour to get to Shigaraki Station from JR Kusatsu Station.